Underwater Canada in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, New Brunswick
Robert and I were intent on getting a history lesson from the Canadian group, “The Band,” but the howling wind tried to overpower our car radio. Almost anyone my age can sing harmony to the iconic song. “Acadian driftwood, gypsy tailwind, they call my home, the land of snow…” Recorded in 1975, Acadian Driftwood describes the 1755 Expulsion of the Acadians from what is now Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Maine, during the rivalry between the French and the British. Robbie Robertson’s lyrics were influenced by a Longfellow poem, Evangeline and he took a little liberty with some of the historic facts to tell a good story.
The Acadians were hardly expelled from the coastal Gulf of St. Lawrence in New Brunswick. Driving through small hamlets on the water, we see bright French red, white and blue stripes adorned with the yellow star, Stella Maris of Mary, the patron saint of mariners.
Everything here is related to the sea. Driving in from lonely uninhabited inland forests, it is refreshing to see colorful gardens adorned with miniature painted lighthouses in front of wind beaten cedar shingled cottages. Locals proudly fly the wind-tattered shreds of vibrant flags of Canada, Acadia and New Brunswick. It is hard to imagine the nylon lasting longer than a day in the gale force gusts that are wiping out my plans for diving. We retire to a Tim Horton’s coffee shop to wait for high tide and calmer water. There is a certain degree of patience one finds in the maritime villages here. With the economy tied to natural resources like fishing, forestry and mining, as well as tourism, the locals work with the rhythm of the seasons and the slow pace of the natural world. Timmies is full of old characters with storied accents that question if this year’s 8-month lobster season will be a good one. They don’t seem to care much for American politics but seem pleased that Donald Trump’s trade war with China is resulting in a tariff on Maine lobster exports. Although most Canadian lobsters head south to America, the market in China for Canadian lobster is on the rise. Five years ago, the Chinese exports reached $36 million, but last year grew five-fold to over $174 million. That’s a lot of lobster and if I get my way, I’ll grab a few shots when the sea states subsides.
In the meantime, I’ll patiently drink coffee or sing along to my radio. “Canadian cold front, movin’ in, what a way to ride, what a way to go.”
If you want dive in the Gulf of St. Lawrence to see lobster, crab and lots of flounder try one of these sites in Petit Rocher Nord:
ARSENEAU STREET – Coming from Pointe-Verte, this is the first Arseneau Street. Believe it or not, there are two Arseneau Streets in the area. There is another one located in the center of town, that does not have access for diving. There is easy access to the beach entry and room for a few vehicles to park. The depth at high tide is around 20 feet deep.
DOUCET STREET – Turn down Doucet Street in Petie Rocher Nord (not the other Doucet Street in Petit Rocher!) and follow it to the end of the road. There is enough parking for three vehicles. This site offers a maximum depth of 35′ at high tide. Diving at high tide will net the best visibility.
